Fuzhou, Fujian Province
A’long runs one of the last mobile barbecue stands in Fuzhou, with this truck.
It’s a warehouse and a kitchen rolled into one.
Once he finds a location, he pulls over, sets up the stand, and starts grilling.
The sausages he grills are homemade.
Instead of the starchy sausages sold on the market, A’long makes almost 100% meat sausages.
He pokes holes in each sausage to ensure they will be heated evenly and won’t end up exploding when grilled.
The sausage is sweet and faintly alcoholic.
Grilled oyster is another specialty of the mobile barbecue joint.
Minced garlic is an essential condiment.
A’long has over 4,000 subscribers to his online account. Once he publishes an address for the night, they swarm in.
Guangzhou, Guangdong Province
Ten pm, this restaurant has closed for business.
A group of customers linger, waiting for someone.
The man they are waiting for is called Hui Ge—Brother Hui.
This hair dryer is his weapon of choice.
He taught himself how to grill by watching others make lou mei—braised meat.
His barbecue is also basted in lou sauce.
It tastes slightly sweet, like honey baked ham.
Hui Ge is invited to cater private barbecue parties as the master griller.
Surrounded by so many pairs of hungry eyes . . .
Dog: “Will you hurry up? The barbecue stand’s closing soon. ”